Eat. Dream. Run!

May 2006. Something was amiss. The atmosphere in the camp was tense as our guides, Kelli and Mark, argued with a group of men a few feet away. A few of us stayed within earshot while the rest of the group cautiously stood by the camp fire. The first day of our truck safari began …

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Zanzibar, the musical

May 2006. “Allahu Akbar.” I got out of bed, half asleep, and staggered toward the window. The muezzin’s call echoed through the dark streets of Zanzibar’s old Stone Town district. Power was out at the Safari Lodge. Without the din of the air conditioning unit, the early morning sounds of the city filtered into every …

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Slowly, slowly down Kilimanjaro

December 2008. “Pole pole (Paw-leh paw-leh),” my guide, Orest, warned me in Swahili. “Slowly, slowly,” I said to myself as I made my way up to Horombo Camp at 3,705 meters. That was three days ago. I was back at Horombo after reaching Gilman’s Point at 5,685 meters. It was short of the highest point, …

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Freedom on the savannah

May 2006. Nightfall had descended on the campground at Serengeti National Park. My tent was still water-logged from the torrential rains that flooded it the night before. Hours under the Tanzanian sun hadn’t dried it out. I snuggled inside the Land Rover instead to stay warm and safe. We had been driving around the Serengeti …

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Testing my limit on Kilimanjaro

December 2008. 5:10 a.m. The sun emerged from behind the dark slopes of Mawenzi Peak in the distance. I’m at Gilman’s Point -  5,685 meters above sea level. Streaks of snow worked their way down the crater of Kilimanjaro.  My guide, Orest, shook my hand as he had done with countless others in previous climbs. …

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