Death’s door in Jaipur

May 2012. Traffic didn’t stop at the junction of Hasanpura and Station Roads. The streets were unlit except for the headlights from careening vehicles. Pedestrians walked briskly to cross the street. I followed suit. Suddenly, an intense light blurred my vision. Then, a screech. Questionable luck placed me at that road junction. The road taken …

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Second class, chair

June 2012.  The overnight express to Varanasi was late. Huge rats scavenged for food under the rails and benches at Lucknow’s Charbagh station - an imposing structure with a striking Mughal façade. The setting provided a splendid contrast that illustrated the paradox that was India. Although the Republic promotes a classless society, class still mattered …

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The ABCs of Indian Railways

June 2012. The train arrived at Delhi Sarai Rohilla station at half past noon. Sweaty and exhausted, I boarded an auto rickshaw for New Delhi station, steeling myself for a slew of acronyms that go with train travel in India. Two hours later, I booked my passage to Agra, and from there, to Lucknow. I …

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