Riding with Santa over the Andes

January 2018. The bus tried its best to reach Mendoza before sundown. It sped along the highway, following the course of the Mendoza River toward the Argentine city, east of the Andes. But even with the abundance of sunshine due to the southern summer solstice, we were losing the battle with daylight. It didn’t have …

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The ghosts of Buenos Aires past

December 2017. “Señor, no puede pasar aqui. (You can’t pass here.)” The police officer blocked the path through a pedestrian arcade that skirted around the Casa Rosada. Barriers were being set up around the Plaza de Mayo but I was hoping to avoid the long detour around them on my way to the riverfront. My …

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The underground merchants of cool

January 2018. The Chilean man with the backpack walked up and down the subway car offering bottled water for less than a dollar. “Agua. Agua.” he intoned in a low voice. The doors opened at the next Santiago Metro station, and a couple of guards escorted him onto the platform. They disappeared into an office …

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